Spadegrip Variations

NOTE:
THE "BUTTERFLY" SPADE DRAW-
INGS ARE AT BOTTOM OF PAGE.

Here is a variation I have considered, but have yet to build. If you think the logic is sound, you may want to try it.

This is a variation I am going to try the next time I build a ANM2 style spadegrip. The pivot bracket & trip lever is closer to the ANM2, but instead of the trigger lever turning 90 degrees inward, it turns 90 degrees out, and has hinged lower legs connecting to the 1919's external trigger. I think this will give a better upward pull to the system. The crucial element will be the length of the horizontal plate. If it is too short it won't give enough lift, but the longer it gets the more the trigger pull moves away from an upward travel.

A dimensioned drawing of the original
ANM2/Colt MG series bracket. The original was made from 1/8" thick stock, but I use 3/16".
Your choice.

Safety Designs

THE ANM2 SAFETY

Looking at the front of the
safety from the rear of gun. Note the half-moon cutouts under the rivets, which are domed top and bottom.

Assembly from the back
showing contour details.

A few drawings from an ANM2 shop manual showing details of spadegrip and trigger mechanism.

In this detail you can see how the safety interacts with the trigger. The ANM2 does not have the mainspring rod protruding from the backplate so the trigger loop can be pushed nearly flush with the backplate. On a spadegrip adapted to the 1919A4 you have to keep the mechanism far enough back not to interfere with the mainspring rod. If this design is used, you will need to have the bar connecting the spade to the loop continue on far enough to reach the notch in the safety.

This photo came from the TR 1300-30J ANM2 manual issued in the 1930s. The enlarged version gives a pretty good look at the various parts of the spadegrip, including the safety.

.50 CALIBER SAFETY

Above is a shop drawing of the .50 cal. safety. To the right is a drawing of the .50 safety adapted for the 1919 by turning the top projection to the front.

When slid to the right, this projection stops the tripping lever from moving upward and lifting the trigger. Sliding part "A" has two depressions which accept the ridge in fixed spring "B". This is about as simple as it gets.

Click on the image at right to get drawings & info on making the spring plate (B).

The "Butterfly" spade design

Following are drawing for the inverted "V" spade. The trip lever pulls straight up - correct for the 1919. It features the safety shown above. A gun should have a safety. This design features resin handles, and another approach to making the spanner screws by turning a complete screw from a carriage bolt without welding a cap to a rod, or the original ANM2 splined tubes & spanner nuts (see The Main Bolts page for details). Also note that the lower legs and trigger roller are hinged so they can be easily removed by pulling one pin. This allows you to remove the backplate without having to loosen the cam and then have to reset the fine trigger setting.

Side view showing trip lever angled to avoid main spring rod.

Blowup showing further details. Note Allen screws to prevent profiled resin handles from rotating.

Rear view showing elongated circle to allow trip lever to slide up.

V spade trip lever details. Note the hole in the trigger roller is offset so it can be rotated for fine trigger adjustment and then locked in place with Allen screw. The left leg's lower hole is tapped 1/4"-20. Also, the lower legs can be detached as a unit for quick removal of backplate without disturbing the roller setting.

Spade pattern. Click to go to
actual size image for print out.

The .50 cal. spade

I make 3 patterns. The 1st one, far left, is covered with tape and used to make an outline with a Sharpie permanent marker. The center one is used to centerpunch for the 3/4" hole I cut with a sheet metal bit. The one on the right has no tape and is clued to the finished spade and used as a guide to strike the groves.